| Around the world, sophisticated couples are | | | | knock over their wine glass. So the rule is, put the |
| discovering the joys of the dinner party ... and | | | | water tumbler on the right of a wine-tasting glass. |
| encountering a series of difficult dilemmas. How do | | | | Here, the essential factor is the height of the |
| you set a table with wine-tasting glasses? What | | | | glasses - which should descend from left to right." |
| should you bring when you are invited to dine? | | | | In general, Roberta Mascheroni links the entire |
| Roberta Mascheroni, an expert on good manners, | | | | table setting to the convenience of the diners. |
| reveals the rules that govern dining and | | | | The centrepiece, for instance, should never be |
| entertaining, clearing up the knotty issues that | | | | too large to present an obstacle to seeing across |
| cause most embarrassment and uncertainty. | | | | the table. But as it is such an attractive part of |
| Over the last five years, the country that | | | | the table setting, even in limited space there |
| invented etiquette has rediscovered manners. | | | | should always be some flowers (not highly |
| Italy, home to Castiglione's The Coutier, has been | | | | perfumed) or, if you want to be creative, |
| reconverted to formality by the Ii Galatea a test | | | | something like a display of fruit. In really cramped |
| of the Milanese aristocrat Roberta Mascheroni | | | | conditions do not omit a centrepiece (or, even |
| who teaches at La Scuola delia Cucina Italiana, in | | | | worse, take it from the table during the meal) but |
| Milan, Italy. Her advice ranges to areas of life | | | | simply put a flower in a small vase by each place |
| unknown to a Renaissance courtier like Baldassare | | | | setting. |
| Castiglione (he never wrote an email), but it | | | | For similar reasons of respect for your guests, |
| focuses on Masheroni's special passion - the | | | | the napkins should not be presented in intricate |
| conventions of elegant dining. | | | | shapes. It is actually much more convenient for a |
| Dining, because it offers such clear opportunities | | | | guest to use a napkin that has been simply folded |
| for embarrassing gaffes is one area she feels we | | | | into a neat rectangle. A concern for hygiene is |
| all have much to learn about. "The essence of | | | | also better displayed in a simply presented napkin |
| good manners," she says, "is genuinely wanting to | | | | rather than one that has been manipulated into an |
| put the other person at ease. They are just a | | | | exotic form. Clear logic also dictates the precise |
| way of putting into practice the Christian principle | | | | positions of your plate on the table. This should be |
| of treating other people as you would like them | | | | at a distance of two fingers from the table's edge |
| to treat you." At a formal meal, however, good | | | | positioned so that if any food drops from a |
| intentions are not enough. The best way to make | | | | guest's fork, it will be caught by the table, not his |
| a good impression is to know the rules. Take the | | | | lap. Of course, now that service plates have been |
| present you bring your host. A nice bottle of | | | | introduced - these ensure that the guest never |
| wine? Absolutely not. "This is one example of | | | | sits at an empty setting while a new course is |
| where a lot of people go wrong. It is not good | | | | brought - the rule changes. As a service plate is |
| manners to bring a bottle of wine. Obviously, your | | | | itself designed for catching any falling morsel, its |
| hostess will have organised a meal and chosen a | | | | edge is precisely aligned with that of the table |
| wine that perfectly accompanies the dishes. But if | | | | itself. |
| you bring wine she will feel that she should open it. | | | | Roberta Masheroni also argues that, as the |
| If you know the rules, it is easier. If you really | | | | conventional place setting is not arbitrary but |
| have to bring wine, always bring two bottles and | | | | functional, it presents only limited room for |
| clearly say, "for another occasion". If you are a | | | | personal creativity. "Lots of people like to show |
| hostess and a guest brings wine or a dessert, you | | | | their personality and imagination by giving their |
| must do the same. Thank your guest and tell | | | | table setting a distinctive feature. This is absolutely |
| them that you will enjoy it together at another | | | | fine, but I suggest that if you want to do |
| time." | | | | something a bit different with your setting, do it |
| There is also a sophisticated protocol for setting | | | | with just one aspect." For instance, you could |
| the table. As fashionable couples across Europe | | | | decide to have a different colour napkin rather |
| increasingly entertain their friends at dinner parties, | | | | than one that matches the tablecloth. This is fine, |
| it is one of the areas where Roberta Mascheroni | | | | but if you want to do this, make sure that |
| finds she is most often asked for advice. She has | | | | everything else follows the established pattern. |
| also been forced to extend the conventions of | | | | You could also use coloured glasses if you like, but |
| established guides as changes in dining present | | | | again make sure that everything else is according |
| new quandaries. | | | | to the rules. And only use the coloured glasses for |
| For instance, one fundamental convention for a | | | | water - a wine connoisseur will not appreciate |
| place setting is that the knives are on the left and | | | | having a glass that prevents him from enjoying |
| the forks on the right of the plate. They are | | | | the colour of his wine". |
| positioned in order of use, starting from the outer | | | | One specific area where she notices that |
| edge, with the knife blades pointing towards the | | | | convention is already changing is with wine glasses. |
| plate and the forks' prongs (unless you are in | | | | It is, she says, now common in some of the |
| France or in the house of a francophile Piedmont | | | | most sophisticated homes and restaurants to set |
| aristocrat) curving upwards. | | | | places at which each diner will have wine from a |
| But what about the fork for spaghetti? "There is | | | | different set of glasses. The resulting variation in |
| one particular issue that creates a lot of | | | | height and shape is actually an attractive and chic |
| uncertainty. If you serve pasta, where do you | | | | effect. She is also very enthusiastic about another |
| put the fork? Now a lot of people, reading the | | | | slightly unusual approach to place setting - giving |
| traditional style guides will read that all the forks | | | | each guest his or her own salt and pepper pots. |
| go on the left, so they will put it on the left. In | | | | Again, this has a clear functional logic - allowing |
| fact, the reason for putting forks on the left is | | | | each diner to apply the precise quantity of salt or |
| simply because you use them with your left hand. | | | | pepper that suits his or her palate. |
| But a fork for spaghetti (and you should only set | | | | A further tip for the host is to serve white wine |
| a fork - if your guest wants a spoon as well, he | | | | and young red wine in a jug, as this helps to |
| can ask) is held in your right hand. Put it on the | | | | remove the chemicals that can cause headaches |
| right. And the same goes for a spoon for | | | | but always present the bottle alongside. If |
| minestrone. | | | | necessary, do this on an trolley or small table |
| The current trend for wine tasting presents a | | | | rather than on the main table. And always aim for |
| further complication. "The convention for glasses | | | | overall harmony of colours and forms - so that |
| is that they should be in a diagonal line above the | | | | your centrepiece, for example, has the same |
| plate to the right. The order from left to right is | | | | shape as the table, round for a round table or |
| water, red wine then white wine. Some people will | | | | square for a square table. |
| say that the centre of the red wine glass should | | | | For guests, the crucial points to remember are: |
| be in a line with the principal fork. If you have a | | | | bring a gift - either flowers (a bunch to be sent in |
| fourth glass for dessert wine (and never set a | | | | advance, not brought on the day, of an odd |
| table with more than four glasses), then it goes | | | | number over five) or something personal like a |
| above the red wine, which moves slightly out of | | | | book; do not put your hands on the table in Britain |
| line with the water and white wine to give it | | | | or America (although in the rest of the world you |
| room." | | | | can and in Italy it is actually considered odd to |
| These rules, however, cannot be applied when the | | | | leave your hands on your lap); and, finally, use the |
| meal involves wine tasting. "The appropriate | | | | correct signal when you have finished a course - |
| glasses for wine tasting are far too big to be put | | | | if the plate is considered as a clock, put your |
| in the traditional position. If you are going to taste | | | | knife and fork together at twenty minutes past |
| more than one wine, in fact, the best thing is to | | | | four. A final point: good manners are no substitute |
| take away the first glass and replace it rather | | | | for good intentions. An elegant dinner depends on |
| than have both on the table simultaneously. There | | | | understanding etiquette, but impeccable manners |
| is another problem with water. This, according to | | | | and settings do not guarantee a good evening. |
| convention, goes on the left, but to make space | | | | Roberta Mascheroni reminds all her pupils at the |
| for the larger wine-tasting glass it is best to serve | | | | prestigious Scuola di Cucina Italiana that, unless |
| water in a tumbler that is much lower than the tall | | | | they genuinely want to put people at their ease, |
| wine glass. Put this on the left and every time | | | | their dinners will never be successes. |
| your guests want to take a sip of water; they will | | | | |