Surfing: Defining Just What “Stoke” Is

The 10 to 16 foot waves that poundedit is to let someone experience it for themselves,
Maine’s coastline as a result of category 1but that is about as easy as hitting an arrow with
Hurricane Bill seemed to serve as a beacon toanother arrow while you are on horseback in the
surfers from all over the Eastern seaboard.middle of a hurricane.
Although there were unfortunate casualties thatSo for the lack of a better way to explain stoke,
resulted from nature’s romp through the eastone has to turn to using metaphors that hopefully
coast, it seems that the old addage that a silvercorrespond to some reference point that people
lining lies somewhere holds true … at least forcan relate to. The difficulty is that stoke defies
surfers.definition, for the simple fact that it varies greatly
Despite the damages brought about by thefrom one person to another. Although most refer
hurricane, surfers were lucky enough toto it by the same name, the experience that an
experience some “pipeline” sized wavesindividual goes through is definitely unique within
that rolled through some of the easterneach person.
coast’s beaches, like in Montauk new York.Stoke is, by all intent and definition, an
Although swimmers were not allowed to enterindividually personal experience that has no
the water, the excited surf crowd paddled out toprerequisites – small waves, big waves,
consistent sets and pounding waves. The scenesurfboard, body board, solitary, or surrounded by
reminded me of the North Shore of Oahu duringfriends, it happens at any given moment in time.
the consistent winter swells, as crowds gather inIt is about your state of mind, and state of being.
increasing droves to gawk and stare at theSomeone once said that the secret to life lies
bravewatermen who paddle out intoin one thing, and one thing alone. Once you find
monster-sized waves.that one thing, you should spend all your energy
and effort ensuring that everything you do and
Call them crazy, call them adrenaline junkies …strive for is devoted to that one thing. When
whatever they can be labelled as, they are out inquestioned as towhat that one thing is, the
the waves for the same reason as every otheranswer was simply “I don’t know. It (the
surfer: the stoke. The ever mysterious, andone thing) is different for everyone.” Go, and
elusively indescribable “stoke”.find your stoke … your one thing!
What is “stoke”? The best way to explain